Selecting an extension ladder takes more than just measuring how high you need to reach. To get the right ladder, you need to determine the ladder length needed, decide on the duty rating, and choose the ladder material.

Length — An extension ladder needs to be longer than either the highest point you need to reach or the highest support point (Illustrations, right). There are two reasons why.

First, the ladder sections have to overlap by several feet to keep the ladder rigid. Second, you shouldn’t stand above the fourth rung from the top of the ladder, which means your reach will be only slightly higher than the top of the ladder.

Duty Rating — Next, you’ll need to determine the duty rating you’ll require. This specifies how much total weight the ladder can handle. Thankfully, all ladders adhere to the same standard. And the color of fiberglass ladders corresponds with their duty ratings (Chart, right), making them easy to identify.

Material — If you compare ladders of equal length and duty rating, you&rsqup;ll find that aluminum ladders are usually less expensive. And aluminum is lighter, which makes the ladder easier to carry and set up. But aluminum ladders are conductive, so they shouldn’t be used near electrical wires. Fiberglass ladders cost more and weigh more, but are stiffer and have nonconductive rails, which makes them safer around electrical wires.

I actually own two ladders: an aluminum Type III for light chores and a fiberglass Type IA for big tasks. But if I owned just one, it would be a fiberglass Type I.

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers

Editor, Workbench

Installing a ceiling fan where there used to be a light fixture used to be a big project. That’s because you had to install support blocks in the ceiling to support the weight of the fan. But a new product called an expandable support bar has made that process easier.

The bar creates a sturdy mounting surface for the fan between two ceiling joists. Plus, it’s easy to install.

This expandable support bar will fit through an opening in the ceiling as small as the junction box it will ultimately brace. Then, with the feet of the brace resting on the top of the ceiling, you can expand the brace by twisting the hexagonal body by hand.

When the bar is expanded to span between the joists, a few more turns with a 1″ wrench will embed the points into the wood to secure it firmly. You can then attach the junction box using a U-bolt, flange, nuts, and washers, all of which are included with the support bar.

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers

Editor, Workbench

If you’re not familiar with pocket-hole joinery, you’ll want to be. It’s a versatile method that can be used in everything from cabinetmaking to deck building (Photos, above).

The pocket joint is easy to understand. There’s an angled hole (the pocket) in one workpiece that has a smaller screw shank hole at the bottom. By driving a screw into this hole, it pierces the mating workpiece and draws the two tightly together.

Pocket-hole joinery has been around for many years, but one company, Kreg Tools, has made it easy with their well-designed pocket-hole jigs. The company’s latest model, the R3 (Photo, above), is aimed at do-it-yourselfers and is available at Lowe’s.

To use the jig, first adjust the legs to match the thickness of material you’re using. Then set a stop collar on the stepped drill bit. That ensures that the bit will bore the correct depth pocket, and it locates the screw hole centered on the stock thickness.

To use the R3, clamp the jig to one of the workpieces to be joined, slip the drill bit into the sleeve, and then drill until the stop collar bottoms out (Illustration, right). You don’t have to drill into the mating workpiece.

After drilling the pockets, align the two mating pieces, and then drive in the screws. The screw shank is smaller than the hole it fits into, so the screw won’t grab the workpiece that has the pocket. The threads bite into the mating piece only. The “washer-style” screw head seats into the bottom of the pocket and pulls the two pieces together (Illustration, right).

Once the screws are tight, the joint is very unlikely to come apart, even without glue (though glue can be used). The pockets can usually be hidden, or they can be filled with a special plug.

For more information on the R3, as well as other pocket-hole jigs made by Kreg Tools, visit KregTools.com.

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers

Editor, Workbench

If you ever need to move a light switch, choose a remodeler’s box. A remodeler’s box looks much like a standard electrical box, but it is designed so that you can mount it without having to attach it to a wall stud.

The remodeler’s box has flanges at the top and bottom that rest on the outside face of the wallboard to prevent the box from falling into the wall cavity. Small “wings” pinch the drywall from behind to secure the box in the opening. You can see how this works in the Illustration at right.

Installing a remodeler’s box is easy. After locating where you want the box positioned, just trace around it, and cut a hole. Pull the wires into the box, and then slip it into the opening. Now tighten the mounting screws at the top and bottom of the box. As you do this, the wings pivot up and then pull forward to exert pressure against the drywall and hold the box in place.

After that, all you need to do is wire up the switch, screw it into the box, and then add a cover plate.

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers

Editor, Workbench

A few simple steps will ensure that cracks in your concrete driveway stay sealed for the long haul.

You’ll find a wide selection crack fillers on the shelves at any home center or hardware store. Crack filler is similar to caulk but is formulated to adhere to the concrete and to remain flexible as temperatures change and the slabs shift.

Before putting filler in the crack, you need to start by cleaning it out thoroughly. Pull any weeds and loosen the dirt in the crack using a screwdriver or an old butter knife (Fig. 1). Then suck up the debris with a shop vacuum or use a hose to blast it away.

After the area dries, you can fill the crack. Start by stuffing in foam backer rod, so it sits ¹/₄″ to ¹/₂″ below the concrete surface. Then fill the remaining space with crack filler until it sits level with the surface (Fig. 2).

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers

Editor, Workbench

Many slab mirrors are installed with adhesive or tape rather than mechanical fasteners. But you can still remove them easily with a bit of care and this simple tip.

To remove the mirror safely, you can make a wire saw (Photo, right). Just head for the hardware store, and pick up a length of picture-hanging wire, a dowel, and a couple of small cable stops. Cut the dowel to make handles, and drill holes for the wire to pass through. Cut the wire to length, and then secure it to the handles using the cable stops.

To use the saw, just slip it behind the mirror, and cut your way through, as shown in the Illustration at right. On a larger mirror, you may need one person at each end.

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers

Editor, Workbench

Too often when a chair comes apart, the tenons that hold the rungs in the legs get snapped off inside the leg. With simple tools and a bit of patience, though, you can remove the tenon, repair the rung, and make the chair good as new.

Start by trying to pry the remnants of the tenon out of the mortise, as shown in Fig. 1. Use gentle pressure.

If that doesn’t work, you’ll need to drill the tenon out. To do that, first use the rung to determine the angle at which the tenon enters the leg. Then drill a small-diameter starter hole, centered on the end of the broken tenon. Follow up with progressively larger holes (Fig. 2).

Now you’ll need to make a new tenon to fit into the rung. Here again, just drill progressively larger holes in the end of the rung, and then insert a dowel (Fig. 3).

Now reglue the chair. Use ratcheting straps to draw the assembly tight (Photo, above right).

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers

Editor, Workbench

If you ever come across a bowed board while installing tongue-and-groove flooring, don’t throw it out. Many boards can be bent to your will by simply using leverage

To do this, just set a 2-ft. long section of scrap flooring against the bowed plank at about a 30° angle, making sure to line up the grooved side of the scrap with the tongue on the bowed board. Then drive a screw into the scrap about 6″ from the end to act as a pivot point (Illustration). This creates a lever that can be used to push the plank into place. By rotating the opposite end of the scrap piece outward, it forces the bent board tightly into place for nailing.

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers

Editor, Workbench

Basement workshops are hardworking hubs of activity for do-it-yourselfers. But in tight quarters, space comes at a premium. One solution is to add extra storage by using the space between the floor joists overhead. To do that, install a pull-down storage bin to hold power tools and other building supplies

This handy drop-down bin is easy to build. It’s just a box made of 3/4″ plywood and pine that’s sized to fit between the floor joists. Shelves divide the bin into compartments, and wide rails keep items from falling out.

After building the bin, it must be mounted securely. To do that, start by cutting a 2×10 brace to fit between the floor joists. Then attach a continuous hinge to the bin and brace. The bin is secured in its closed position with a wood turnbutton.

A screen-door closer gets attached along one side. It prevents the bin from swinging down too quickly and holds the bin in position when it’s open.

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers

Editor, Workbench

Installing a programmable thermostat is a great way to decrease your cooling and heating costs. Claims vary, but it’s reasonable to expect a savings of 10 to 20 percent.

Installing a programmable thermostat is easy. After shutting off the furnace and air conditioner, remove the old thermostat. The dial will either pop off or unscrew, revealing wires connected to the wall plate. Each wire connects to a terminal that is marked with a letter. Remove one wire at a time, and mark it using the labels that come with the new thermostat (Photo, above right). Then remove the wall plate.

Next, install the wall plate for the new thermostat using screws and hollow-wall anchors. Make sure the plate is level. Then reconnect the wires to the terminals on the new plate. Put batteries in the new thermostat, and snap it onto the wall plate (Photo, right). Now, all you need to do is program the thermostat for the times and temperatures you want.

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers

Editor, Workbench