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	<title>Workbench eTips</title>
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	<link>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips</link>
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	<lastBuildDate>Fri, 27 Aug 2010 17:00:36 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>Simple Saw Blade Guard</title>
		<link>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/08/27/simple-saw-blade-guard/</link>
		<comments>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/08/27/simple-saw-blade-guard/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 27 Aug 2010 17:00:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[tools]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/?p=592</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[An exposed saw blade in the garage or shop can be dangerous at worst or dull the blade at best. That&#8217;s why we like to cover up the blade with the spine from a plastic report cover. Readily available at office supply stores, these spines even come in bright colors, so they&#8217;re easy to find [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>An exposed saw blade in the garage or shop can be dangerous at worst or dull the blade at best. That&#8217;s why we like to cover up the blade with the spine from a plastic report cover. Readily available at office supply stores, these spines even come in bright colors, so they&#8217;re easy to find in a messy shop.</p>
<p><img src="http://workbenchmagazine.com/etip/images/2010/100827-1.jpg" alt="Blade Guard" width="200" height="316" style="display:block"></p>
<p style="margin-bottom:15px;">Have a nice weekend,</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:16px;">Wyatt Myers<br />
Online Editor, <em>Workbench</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Stir Stick Savvy</title>
		<link>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/08/20/stir-stick-savvy/</link>
		<comments>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/08/20/stir-stick-savvy/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 20 Aug 2010 17:00:31 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[quick tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/?p=590</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Don&#8217;t throw the stick away after mixing up paint. Instead, write the room name and critical paint information on the stick after it dries. That way, you&#8217;ll always know what color the room is if you need more. You can even take the stick to the store when shopping for matching drapes, pillows, and other [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Don&#8217;t throw the stick away after mixing up paint. Instead, write the room name and critical paint information on the stick after it dries. That way, you&#8217;ll always know what color the room is if you need more. You can even take the stick to the store when shopping for matching drapes, pillows, and other room accessories.</p>
<p><img src="http://workbenchmagazine.com/etip/images/2010/100820-1.jpg" alt="Paint Sticks" width="500" height="472" style="display:block"></p>
<p style="margin-bottom:15px;">Have a nice weekend,</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:16px;">Wyatt Myers<br />
Online Editor, <em>Workbench</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Why We Build with MDF</title>
		<link>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/08/13/why-we-build-with-mdf/</link>
		<comments>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/08/13/why-we-build-with-mdf/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 13 Aug 2010 17:00:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[woodworking]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/?p=588</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[For projects like built-ins and bookcases, we often use medium-density fiberboard (MDF), shown on top in the Photo, instead of plywood, shown on the bottom. MDF is smooth and consistent on the faces and edges, so it paints up nicely without showing grain lines or the telltale plies on the edges. And at a cost [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For projects like built-ins and bookcases, we often use medium-density fiberboard (MDF), shown on top in the Photo, instead of plywood, shown on the bottom.</p>
<p><img src="http://workbenchmagazine.com/etip/images/2010/100813-1.jpg" alt="MDF and Plywood" width="400" height="285" style="display:block"></p>
<p>MDF is smooth and consistent on the faces and edges, so it paints up nicely without showing grain lines or the telltale plies on the edges. And at a cost of $20 for a 4&#215;8 sheet, MDF is very economical.</p>
<p>On the negative side, MDF isn&#8217;t as stiff as plywood. That means large horizontal surfaces (like long shelves) will need bracing or additional supports underneath to prevent them from sagging.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:15px;">Have a nice weekend,</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:16px;">Wyatt Myers<br />
Online Editor, <em>Workbench</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Do Detectors Get Old?</title>
		<link>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/08/06/do-detectors-get-old/</link>
		<comments>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/08/06/do-detectors-get-old/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 06 Aug 2010 17:00:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[diy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[quick tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/?p=586</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Everyone knows you should replace your smoke detector battery every year. But it will probably come as a surprise to learn that you should replace the entire smoke detector every eight to 10 years. This applies, by the way, to both battery-operated and hard-wired models. To understand why this is necessary, consider that a smoke [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Everyone knows you should replace your smoke detector battery every year. But it will probably come as a surprise to learn that you should replace the entire smoke detector every eight to 10 years. This applies, by the way, to both battery-operated and hard-wired models.</p>
<p><img src="http://workbenchmagazine.com/etip/images/2010/100806-1.jpg" alt="Smoke Alarm" width="400" height="383" style="display:block"></p>
<p>To understand why this is necessary, consider that a smoke detector monitors the air constantly 24 hours a day. That means after 10 years a detector has been through, according to some estimates, three to four million duty cycles. So it&#8217;s no surprise that components can wear out. In addition, detectors can become clogged by dust and other contaminants in the air.</p>
<p>If you&#8217;re not sure how old your detector is, look on the label (located on the back) for a manufacturing date. To make replacement easy, write the replacement date on that detector or on the new one you install. Then you&#8217;ll be reminded of its age every year when you change the battery.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:15px;">Have a nice weekend,</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:16px;">Wyatt Myers<br />
Online Editor, <em>Workbench</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Make Foundation Repairs That Last with Hydraulic Cement</title>
		<link>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/07/30/make-foundation-repairs/</link>
		<comments>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/07/30/make-foundation-repairs/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 Jul 2010 18:00:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[quick tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[repair]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/?p=584</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[If you need to fix a crack in a basement wall, the best cement choice for this kind of repair is a mixture called hydraulic cement. It expands as it cures, so it will fill the void and keep water from pushing through (Illustration, below). Another nice thing about hydraulic cement is that it can [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you need to fix a crack in a basement wall, the best cement choice for this kind of repair is a mixture called hydraulic cement. It expands as it cures, so it will fill the void and keep water from pushing through (Illustration, below).</p>
<p><img src="http://workbenchmagazine.com/etip/images/2010/100730-1.jpg" alt="Fill the void" width="400" height="300" style="display:block"></p>
<p>Another nice thing about hydraulic cement is that it can be applied to wet surfaces. That means you can fill the hole even as the leak is occurring.</p>
<p>Hydraulic cement comes as a powder and gets mixed with water (Photo, below). Only mix enough to do the job, as it has a very short working time. From the point you mix it, you’ll only have five to 15 minutes to get the cement in place before it hardens.</p>
<p><img src="http://workbenchmagazine.com/etip/images/2010/100730-2.jpg" alt="Hydraulic cement mix" width="400" height="349" style="display:block"></p>
<p>To patch the void, wear rubber gloves and use your hands or a putty knife to pack the cement into the void.</p>
<p>Of course, once you&#8217;ve fixed the immediate problem, you should look outside to determine why water is getting against the foundation in the first place. Make sure there&#8217;s adequate slope and drainage to keep the water running away from the wall.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:15px;">Have a nice weekend,</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:16px;">Wyatt Myers<br />
Online Editor, <em>Workbench</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Avoid Extremes When Setting a Thermostat</title>
		<link>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/07/23/setting-a-thermostat/</link>
		<comments>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/07/23/setting-a-thermostat/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Jul 2010 18:00:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[diy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[quick tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/?p=582</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[For years I thought that 10 degrees was the maximum variance you should have with a programmable thermostat. As it turns out, you can allow the temperature to change by 10 to even 15 degrees, if the thermostat can stay at that level for at least eight hours. The logic is that if you can [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For years I thought that 10 degrees was the maximum variance you should have with a programmable thermostat. As it turns out, you can allow the temperature to change by 10 to even 15 degrees, if the thermostat can stay at that level for at least eight hours.</p>
<p><img src="http://workbenchmagazine.com/etip/images/2010/100723-1.jpg" alt="Thermostat" width="400" height="292" style="display:block"></p>
<p>The logic is that if you can leave the house at a cooler or warmer temperature for at least eight hours, you&#8217;ll save more energy than is required to re-cool or reheat the house.</p>
<p>But if you need the temperature to come back to your &#8220;comfort&#8221; level in less than eight hours, you should leave the setting at 10 degrees or less.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:15px;">Have a nice weekend,</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:16px;">Wyatt Myers<br />
Online Editor, <em>Workbench</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Inexpensive, Eco-Friendly Cleaning Tips</title>
		<link>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/07/16/eco-friendly-cleaning-tips/</link>
		<comments>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/07/16/eco-friendly-cleaning-tips/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 16 Jul 2010 18:00:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[cleaning]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/?p=580</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Getting the grime off windows and glass doors is one of those cleaning chores you just can&#8217;t avoid. And while there&#8217;s an endless array of glass-cleaning products on the market, it&#8217;s easy to make your own for just pennies. Besides saving money, it&#8217;s safer and more earth-friendly, too. For a safe and effective home-mixed glass [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="margin-bottom:15px;">Getting the grime off windows and glass doors is one of those cleaning chores you just can&#8217;t avoid. And while there&#8217;s an endless array of glass-cleaning products on the market, it&#8217;s easy to make your own for just pennies. Besides saving money, it&#8217;s safer and more earth-friendly, too.</p>
<p><img src="http://workbenchmagazine.com/etip/images/2010/100716-1.jpg" alt="Cleaning Supplies" width="400" height="316" style="display:block"></p>
<table width="400" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" style="margin-bottom:20px;">
<tr>
<td style="padding-top:10px; padding-right:10px; padding-left:10px; font-size:12px; font-weight: bold;">For a safe and effective home-mixed glass cleaner, mix one teaspoon of baby shampoo to one gallon of water or 1&frac12; cups vinegar to one gallon of water.</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p style="margin-bottom:15px;">Window manufacturer Jeld-Wen offers a simple recipe that only uses vinegar or baby shampoo to make glass sparkle (right). They also share these window washing tips:</p>
<ol style="font-size:12px;">
<li style="margin-bottom:10px;">Always wait for an overcast day to wash glass &#8212; bright sunlight causes streaks because it makes the cleaning solution dry too quickly.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom:10px;">Before you start, soak tough spots like dried paint splatters or label adhesive with a solution of warm water and baby shampoo. Then scrape with a plastic putty knife.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom:10px;">Wash surfaces with the solution using a clean, soft cloth or sponge. We suggest a microfiber cloth made for washing cars.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom:10px;">Rinse with clean water. Avoid using a pressurized sprayer because it can break the seals on windows.</li>
<li style="margin-bottom:10px;">Promptly dry glass thoroughly with a soft cloth.</li>
<li>Dry window and door frames with a separate cloth.</li>
</ol>
<p style="margin-bottom:15px;">Have a nice weekend,</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:16px;">Wyatt Myers<br />
Online Editor, <em>Workbench</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>4 Simple Steps to a Green Lawn</title>
		<link>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/07/09/4-simple-steps-to-a-green-lawn/</link>
		<comments>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/07/09/4-simple-steps-to-a-green-lawn/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Jul 2010 18:00:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lawn care]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/?p=578</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Water It Right. One of the biggest problems people make is watering their lawn too often, which leads to fungus. Instead, Tom Dieck of TRD Designs, a landscape design firm in New York, recommends less frequent but longer watering times to reach the deep roots of the grass. For example, instead of watering every three [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="margin-bottom:15px;"><strong>Water It Right.</strong> One of the biggest problems people make is watering their lawn too often, which leads to fungus. Instead, Tom Dieck of TRD Designs, a landscape design firm in New York, recommends less frequent but longer watering times to reach the deep roots of the grass. For example, instead of watering every three days, try watering once a week for a longer amount of time.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:15px;"><strong>Choose the Proper Fertilizer.</strong> Another common mistake, says Dieck, is fertilizing too close to summer, which can yellow the grass and inhibit its ability to fight off insects. Instead, jump-start your lawn with a nitrogen-based fertilizer in early spring and then again in mid-spring.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:15px;"><strong>Cut It Correctly.</strong> Sharp lawn mower blades are critical to the health of your lawn, so Dieck recommends having them sharpened at the beginning of every mowing season. And Lance Walheim, a gardening expert with Bayer, recommends cutting cool-season grasses (like fescues and Kentucky bluegrass) higher and warm-season grasses (like Bermuda and zoysia) lower.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:15px;"><strong>Try the &#8220;No-Grass&#8221; Option.</strong> If your lawn has almost full shade in the spring and summer months, you might want to consider planting a ground cover instead of grass. &#8220;Turf needs around 60 percent light to establish and return next season,&#8221; says Dieck.</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:15px;">Have a nice weekend,</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:16px;">Wyatt Myers<br />
Online Editor, <em>Workbench</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Update a Mirror with an Applied Frame</title>
		<link>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/07/02/update-a-mirror/</link>
		<comments>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/07/02/update-a-mirror/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Jul 2010 17:00:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[diy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[molding]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[woodworking]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/?p=575</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[When it comes to instant maovers, it&#8217;s hard to get a quicker or more dramatic result than with this project. We created a simple but striking mirror frame out of &#189;&#34; x 3&#189;&#34; poplar that was applied to a slab bathroom mirror with two-sided automotive tape. A miter-less construction method also helped the frame make [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>When it comes to instant maovers, it&#8217;s hard to get a quicker or more dramatic result than with this project. We created a simple but striking mirror frame out of  &frac12;&quot; x 3&frac12;&quot; poplar that was applied to a slab bathroom mirror with two-sided automotive tape.  A miter-less construction method also helped the frame make a significant design impact with a very small investment of time and money.</p>
<p><img src="http://workbenchmagazine.com/etip/images/2010/100702-3.jpg" alt="Bathroom Mirror" width="400" height="309" style="display:block"></p>
<p>Our homeowner had already made a number of stylish updates to this bath, and many would have said his work was done. But after so many improvements, that large, boring slab of mirror just seemed out of place. There was no need to replace the entire mirror since it was in perfect condition. It just needed a cosmetic facelift.</p>
<p>To make this a project that you could finish in a few hours, we used simple butt joints and a no-assembly method to create the frame.  After measuring the mirror carefully, we cut the top and bottom rails to match the length of the mirror.  The stiles equaled the height of the mirror minus 7&#8243; (our poplar was 3&frac12;&quot; wide).</p>
<p><img src="http://workbenchmagazine.com/etip/images/2010/100702-1.jpg" alt="Frame Details" width="251" height="400" style="display:block"></p>
<p>To ease the sharp edges we routed <sup>1</sup>&frasl;<sub>16</sub>&quot; chamfers on the pieces, but you could also soften them by sanding. We then finished the pieces with a Java stain to mimic this bath&#8217;s dark framed slider doors. If your mirror is attached to the wall with clips, you will also need to rout notches for these (see Illustration, above).</p>
<p>Once the stain is dry, you can simply attach the rails and stiles to the mirror with the two-sided automotive tape. (Be sure to clean the mirror first.) You can find this tape at any auto-parts store. It provides a very strong, waterproof seal.</p>
<p>When you apply the strips of tape to the rails and stiles, align them very carefully (Photo below). Use caution when applying the tape to the frame pieces, and again when applying them to the mirror, because there are no &#8220;do-overs&#8221; with this adhesive. Then, just align the pieces on the mirror one at a time (bottom rail first), and apply them using firm hand pressure.</p>
<p><img src="http://workbenchmagazine.com/etip/images/2010/100702-2.jpg" alt="Apply Tape" width="400" height="241" style="display:block"></p>
<table width="400" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0">
<tr>
<td style="padding-right:10px; padding-left:10px; font-size:12px; font-weight: bold;">The secret to this simple frame is using strips of automotive tape to hold it in place. Make sure one strip goes against each inside edge to hide the gap.</td>
</tr>
</table>
<p>Have a nice weekend,</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:16px;">Wyatt Myers<br />
Online Editor, <em>Workbench</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Simple Texture Fix from a Can</title>
		<link>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/06/25/simple-texture-fix-from-a-can/</link>
		<comments>http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/2010/06/25/simple-texture-fix-from-a-can/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 25 Jun 2010 17:00:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[drywall]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[quick tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[repair]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.workbenchmagazine.com/etips/?p=573</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Most homes have textured walls, which means you&#8217;ll still be able to see a smooth patch even after you repair the wall. Thankfully, filling in that smooth spot to match the texture on the rest of the wall is easy. You can find cans of spray texture at most home centers and hardware stores. The [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Most homes have textured walls, which means you&#8217;ll still be able to see a smooth patch even after you repair the wall.</p>
<p>Thankfully, filling in that smooth spot to match the texture on the rest of the wall is easy. You can find cans of spray texture at most home centers and hardware stores. The newest cans even have an adjustable nozzle for creating different texture effects (Photos, below).</p>
<p><img src="http://workbenchmagazine.com/etip/images/2010/100625-1.jpg" alt="Spray Texture" width="600" height="229" style="display:block"></p>
<p>Before you spray your wall, though, you may want to practice on a scrap of drywall or cardboard first. This will help you get the hang of using the can, as well as come up with a spray pattern that matches your wall well.</p>
<p>Have a nice weekend,</p>
<p style="margin-bottom:16px;">Wyatt Myers<br />
Online Editor, <em>Workbench</em></p>
]]></content:encoded>
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