To achieve square corners when gluing up a cabinet, I use these L-shaped corner blocks. The plywood blocks have 90° corners, so when clamped between two parts, they ensure a square joint.

To create a 90° corner on the block, start by cutting out a square on the table saw. Then, use a band saw or jig saw to complete the “L” shape of the blocks. Also cut a notch for glue relief.

Then, after clamping two case sides together for the glue-up, clamp the corner block in place between them (see Illustration, top right). Clamping two blocks into opposite corners is all it takes to square up a case.

Have a nice weekend,
Wyatt Myers
Online Editor
Workbench Magazine

First, saturate the dent with water, and let it soak in for a minute (Fig. 1). Next, moisten a rag, and lay it flat over the dent. Set an iron on its highest setting, and press it onto the rag for just a few seconds (Fig. 2). This creates steam, which expands the wood fibers to remove the dent.

Use an eye dropper to saturate the dent with water.	Apply an iron to a damp cloth to steam out the dent.

To finish up, sand lightly where the dent used to be, and apply a coat of finish.

Have a nice weekend,
Wyatt Myers
Online Editor
Workbench Magazine

EPOXY CLEANUP

Using alcohol is a great way to clean up excess epoxy, if you do it before it cures.

“FIXING” CHALKLINES

A smudged chalkline is worthless. So I “fix” the line with hairspray.

SIMPLE SCRAPER RACK

A plywood block with a saw kerf in the top edge makes a handy scraper rack.

Have a nice weekend,
Wyatt Myers
Online Editor
Workbench Magazine

If you tap a T-nut in with a hammer, it often goes in crooked. So I use a socket wrench and a hex-head bolt to draw the T-nut into place. This way, it goes in straight.

To use this method, start by slipping a Fender washer over the bolt to distribute pressure evenly. Hand-tighten the bolt until the T-nut begins to bite. Then use the socket wrench to seat the T-nut.

Have a nice weekend,
Wyatt Myers
Online Editor
Workbench Magazine

Storage for plywood cutoffs and other sheet material is extremely limited in my garage shop. So I built an overhead storage rack that takes advantage of the unused space above the garage door.

The rack is made up of four 2×4 frames and a ¾” plywood bottom that keeps small cutoffs from falling out (Illustration, below).

Each frame consists of two short ends that are rabbeted to accept a pair of long rails (Frame Detail). Simply screw the frames together. Then mount them to the ceiling joists with long lag screws. Just be sure the frames clear the garage door opener and the drive track. Once the frames are installed, slip in the plywood bottom, and nail it in place.

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers
Online Editor
Workbench Magazine

To keep boards organized (and to prevent them from falling sideways), I made a simple lumber rack from some lengths of black-iron pipe and a few plumbing fittings (Photo, below).

I used 3/4″ pipe for this rack, which is available at most hardware stores. For a small price, you can have the pipe cut to whatever length you want (24″ in my case). You’ll also want to have threads cut on both ends of each pipe. One end threads into a pipe flange that’s screwed to the wall. The other end gets a cap.

Pipe and plumbing fittings make a simple lumber rack.

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers
Online Editor
Workbench Magazine

Start by wrapping a strip of masking tape around the pipe (or whatever round piece you’re working with). Make a mark where the tape overlaps (Fig. 1). Then peel off the tape, stick it on a flat surface, and measure the distance from the end of the tape to the mark. That’s the circumference of the pipe.

Now divide that measurement by the number of holes. The result is the distance between the holes. Mark lines on the tape that same distance apart (Fig. 2). Then put the tape back on the workpiece and drill a hole at each mark.

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers
Online Editor
Workbench Magazine

To speed things up, I use an old serrated bread knife. With the knife blade engaged in the screw threads and the handle wedged against the wall, it holds the wing snug against the drywall as you install the anchor.

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers
Online Editor
Workbench Magazine

My solution is to fit short blocks of 1/2″ plywood into the gap wherever the molding will be nailed to the wall plate (Illustration, below). The blocks support the bottom of the molding, ensuring a tight fit at the top.

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers
Online Editor
Workbench Magazine

Before you get started though, you’ll need to lay out the location of the mortise. This is just a matter of marking the ends of the mortise. As for the depth of the mortise, it’s determined by the hinge, so adjust the depth of cut accordingly (1/2″ for the mortises in the bench).

To provide plenty of support for the base of the router, I clamp a couple of scrap blocks to the workpiece, flush with the edge (Photo, below). These blocks keep the router from tipping. And as an added benefit, they prevent chipout where the bit exits the cut.

To cut the mortise, turn on the router, plow through one of the blocks, and begin routing up close to the layout lines (within 1/8″ or so). You’ll cut into the scrap blocks as you rout back and forth, but that’s okay. They’ve accomplished their sacrificial job.

Once you’ve removed most of the waste material, unclamp the blocks and square up the shoulders of the mortise with a chisel (Inset Photo).

Have a nice weekend,

Wyatt Myers
Online Editor
Workbench Magazine